Comments on: 120 Moves of Climbing

By: Michael Bartosek

Michael Bartosek — Sat, 25 Jul 2009 05:33:48 +0000

They also released a study a few years ago in a notable journal that found warming up provided no actual benefit and it some cases just fatigued the muscles you were going to be using, suggesting it may actually lead to injury. Go figure.

By: Tom Markiewicz

Tom Markiewicz — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 15:27:53 +0000

Lee – I agree with you on warming up for bouldering. I think it’s even harder to figure out what that means. Last year I started trying to at least count the number of warm-up problems (especially in the gym) and tried to have a rule of doing at least 10 warm-ups before starting anything harder. But in reality, that was probably only 40-50 moves. And judging from my recent injuries, look where it got me…

Mike – it’s cheaper than going to the doctor multiple times. Also ask yourself if you’d pay $50 to not stop climbing for 3-6 months. I think you know the answer to that!

bj – I think just doing laps like you said may be the ticket. That was a nice tactic the past few seasons at the New especially when at an area that may have had fewer warm-up routes at your level.

By: bj

bj — Wed, 15 Jul 2009 22:47:26 +0000

i think once you’ve dealt with a bunch of injuries you really start taking warming up seriously. most of my friends think one route does it, i usually go for 4 ideally, even if it means chucking a few laps on the same climb. great book, btw. some gnarly photos in there!

By: Mike

Mike — Wed, 15 Jul 2009 21:58:26 +0000

I’m interested, but man, that book is expensive!

By: Lee Payne

Lee Payne — Wed, 15 Jul 2009 19:18:24 +0000

That is really interesting – and what does it mean for boulderers – 40+ problems? I sometimes don’t feel properly warmed up till the end of the day – so, I would tend to agree. But finding a way to perform optimally on problem 5, 10, 20, or 50 is really the key.