Comments on: Climbing Training Plan for 2009

By: Top Posts on All Climbing from Jan 2009 â?? All Climbing

Top Posts on All Climbing from Jan 2009 â?? All Climbing — Sun, 01 Feb 2009 07:01:19 +0000

[…] Climbing Training Plan for 2009 Posted on Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 in Injury Prevention Over the years, I think I’ve read almost every book on training for climbing. Always looking for that missing element to my training plans or that hidden technique I never knew existed.Obviously, there never has been a magic bullet, though many books would have you believe so (although I do recommend Training for Climbing). As a result, I began to re-evaluate my own goals and training plans and came to a few conclusions based on what I’ve read, discussed with various doctors and physical trainers, and my own background. […]

By: hosebeats

hosebeats — Sat, 17 Jan 2009 05:51:40 +0000

Instead of icing your hands take a look at cold treatment.
Dave MacLeod has some good info on cold treatment for finger injuries that goes against the common idea of rest the finger.
I’m guessing that it could/would work for more than just pulley tears. It increases the blood flow dramatically to the hand–> speeding up any healing to be done.
More info on his website here
http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/coldtreatment.html
and here
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/search/label/videocasts

Hmm, the videos aren’t working for me at the moment. I’ve watched them before so maybe it’s something with his server.

By: Nick

Nick — Wed, 14 Jan 2009 13:31:57 +0000

As far as dedicated ab and core work i do two different things:

Leglifts/bent knee holds to failure.

another more intense exercise i do is i will hang from a long horizontal bar with both hands opposed so the i am looking straight down the length of the bar with one hand on either side of it. then elevate both feet to one side of the bar and hook my ankle up there – lower down to full hang and then go up on the other side for one full ‘rep’. ill do like 5-10 reps per set. do them slow without ‘swinging’

By: Tom Markiewicz

Tom Markiewicz — Tue, 13 Jan 2009 00:10:03 +0000

Sara, I have about six ice packs I bought at the drugstore that I rotate as needed. The blue fabric ones (made by ACE bandage I think) are ok, but they warm up too quick for my fingers so I use them when I need to ice my elbows.

For fingers/hands I like the squishy kind that they tell you to fit inside a sleeve that’s provided with the ice pack. They are almost always a white plastic color. I get rid of the sleeve and just apply directly from the freezer and ice down my hands until the packs warm up.

The nice part about them is that they are really soft and pliable so they work much better than other ways of icing for me. Hope that helps.

By: Sara

Sara — Mon, 12 Jan 2009 23:49:09 +0000

Icing hands is a great idea. My fatigue area is my fingers — they’re way better/stronger/less injury prone than they used to be, but I’m also doing more sport specific training (hangboard, campus rungs) so need to give them a bit of extra TLC. What method do you use to ice your hands? ice bags don’t seem to do it for me; buckets of ice water hurt like heck!

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 21:51:52 +0000

I have found that a tigher core goes a long way in compensating for my lack of strength as I have gotten back in to climbing. Makes the legs feel much lighter!

By: Tom Markiewicz

Tom Markiewicz — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 21:47:55 +0000

Thanks Narc. I really think crunches or similar types of exercises help with climbing core strength. My opinion is that if you don’t think crunches are effective you are not doing them correctly and/or in the proper combination!

The best ab workout I have ever done was Ab Ripper X as part of the P90x workout program. That 15 min ab workout literally made me want to vomit as it so completely worked your entire core.

By: Climbing Narcissist

Climbing Narcissist — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 21:06:40 +0000

Most excellent stuff. I too need to watch my carb intake. I eat pasta like it is the last food source on the planet. I also like your thoughts on beer consumption!

As far as ab workouts go I have been doing them regularly with our climbing team since the fall and I think it has been a huge help. We usually do different forms of leg lifts as opposed to doing crunches because leg lifts just seem to work better.

Overall I like the plan a lot. It is similar to some of the thoughts I’ve been having so it is good to see it in writing.

By: Tom Markiewicz

Tom Markiewicz — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 19:26:16 +0000

Tom – Thanks, I’ll have to check it out. Also, could you explain more why you think a good routine of crunches will not help with core strength?

By: Tom

Tom — Wed, 07 Jan 2009 19:03:13 +0000

You might want to read the chapter on nutrition in the new edition of Climbing: Training for Peak Performance. Don’t think crunches are all that effective for core training but better than nothing I suppose.