for stiffer lace ups, i ended up liking the 5-10 mojave and, should i ever be able to afford them, the 5-10 anasazi lace (i’ve only tried them on in a shop, but they felt good). for bouldering, and after much trial and error, i finally ended up with the 2003 mad rock hooker zip and lace (though the zip is my favorite). yep, snagging some five-year-old dead stock ended up being the best all-around fit and performance in a bouldering shoe, and i’ve tried a lot of different shoes. the design mad rock employed that particular year works very well for me. they’re not perfect, but they’re close. i’ve tried later iterations of the same shoe and they don’t really work. prior to discovering the 2003 hooker i was using the 5-10 prima, which was doing a pretty satisfactory job, but did end up feeling a bit painful after about an hour and was also stiffer than i like.

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