So I’ve been exploring the different options and decided to try the Evolv Optimus.

The Optimus is a new line of shoes designed by Chris Sharma for Evolv. The Optimus is a slipper and has a more cambered last while the Optimus Prime is a similar velcro version.

In the store, I found both fit well. A US size ten was very snug and I couldn’t even get my foot into a 9.5, so that made the sizing decision quite easy. While trying them initially I thought I’d like them a tad bit smaller, but a 9.5 was impossibly small and after climbing in them a few days, I’d say the fit was fine.

I’ve had some fit issues with some of the shoes I’ve tried recently. Specifically, the heel in the La Sportiva Katana was just too big for me (I even tried the women’s version but still didn’t like the fit). I was surprised to then find the heel fit nicely secure and snug in the Optimus. Unfortunately, after some climbing in them, the height of the heel cup is a little too high for me. While climbing I felt it digging into my heel a bit too painfully. This may not be as noticeable as I climb more in them, but an issue nonetheless.

Overall, I like how the Optimus climbs. The rubber is quite sticky and appears to be two generations past my last pair of Evolv’s (the Evo). My Evo’s used Evolv’s TRAX XT-3 while the Optimus uses the XT-5. What this really means, I have no idea. But I can at least assume it’s a new, improved version of their rubber and it does feel pretty sticky. Then again, they’re new shoes and I’ll have to revisit that statement in a few more weeks.

From just the appearance, the Optimus toe is very boxy looking. This rounded, symmetric toe box fits much better than I thought they would be based solely on my first look at the toe area. The overall look of the shoe is subdued. All black rubber with bits of yellow peeking through does make the Optimus look sharp though.

There’s rubber all over the shoe and Evolv was very generous in this area. My climbing partner commented on this fact, but also added there’s rubber even in places he felt would never be needed. My counter-argument was you never know what kind of crazy smear you’ll need on some bouldering problem, so I’ll take all the rubber I can get!

Pros

• good, snug fit (all relative to my foot of course)
• very sticky rubber
• decent price versus performance
• tons of rubber all over the shoe

Cons

• heel cup is too high for me and cuts into my heel causing pain
• aggressive shoe not great on slabs or face climbs

Specs

Here are the specs for the Evolv Optimus slipper. Most of this is straight from the company.

• profile: semi symmetrical down cambered (CS1 last)
• sole: 4.2 mm TRAX XT-5 high friction rubber
• rand: 2.2mm TRAX duro-rand
• upper: perforated elastic Synthratek synthetic upper with mositure wicking qualities
• lining: unlined
• midsole: MPX-1: 1.3mm stiff poly-dynamic full-length midsole
• Evolv offers split sizing for an extra $30 if you order through their website?
• price: $109

Summary

Overall, if they fit you without discomfort in the heel and fit in the toe box, the Optimus is a good value. As long as the heel cup issue subsides, I’ll be using these as a primary bouldering shoe or for use on short, steep sport routes. While they fit fine, the Optimus will not be my pick for a high-performance
shoe on most routes (La Sportiva Miura‘s again are my choice here for pretty much all routes – perfect fit, edge on a dime, smears great), but for bouldering they look like they’ll shine.

The post Gear Review: Evolv Optimus climbing shoes first appeared on All Climbing.

More gear reviews will be coming including an upcoming review of the new Evolv Optimus slippers. I just got a pair of these and have only been able to use them in the gym. This weekend I’ll be taking them to the New and giving them a full workout.

Another review will be the Revolution 12 Gauge crash pad. I’ve had plenty on mileage on this pad now and a review is almost done.

I’ve taken a ton of pictures recently and haven’t posted any. I’ll be sorting through these and getting some new ones posted.

There’s also a top-secret project in the works. Why even mention it if it’s top-secret? Good question – just felt like I needed to mention it lest you think I’m slacking.

Finally, if you have any interest in the Aron Ralston story, check out an older post I wrote. The comments keep coming (64 now) and there’s a fun flame war brewing. Nice for the entertainment value at least.

The post Coming soon on All Climbing first appeared on All Climbing.