Kolin Powick from Black Diamond posted another excellent gear testing article, this time on the different methods of extending slings on cam placements. He illustrates the three common methods he uses (same as mine) and then examines a sling-on-sling approach he thought was dicey.

The sling-on-sling method of extending a cam sling does save the use of a biner but in my opinion is cumbersome for both the leader and the second. It also appears to reduce the ultimate strength of the system, however, in most cases not so much as to be the weakest link in a real-world climbing situation.

The post Extending Cam Slings first appeared on All Climbing.

We found that drinking cold liquids from polycarbonate bottles for just one week increased urinary BPA levels by more than two-thirds. If you heat those bottles, as is the case with baby bottles, we would expect the levels to be considerably higher.

(via Trailspace)

The post New Study Links Higher BPA Levels to Drinking From Polycarbonate Water Bottles first appeared on All Climbing.

I wouldn’t have touched the climbing rubber test if I wasn’t willing to get criticized. This is a very hot topic. Obviously tests will always only determine how well products do against that individual test. Our goal was to create a simple test that everyone could appreciate and repeat at home (the total cost is < $1k and would be much less if you already had some shoes laying around).

The test is valid for Granite and EGrips holds. Therefore it is responsible for us to publish the results. The additional tests are not to question the results of the earlier test. They are to include more rock / plastic types as well as a few other variables (potentially wetness, temperature, edge holding, etc++).

Now that I’ve said that: We are all for positive and negative feedback. Our goal is to create the #1 gear testing website in 24 months (a huge project and investment on our end but we’re extremely excited about it and have a world class team). Rip our tests to shred. Telling us everything is great doesn’t help us get you a better product. I guarantee we are reading your reader’s feedback and taking it seriously.

Spadout has become what it is today by listening to our reader’s feedback and that won’t change.

There’s also an interesting thread on this study over at SuperTopo.

Finally, Rock & Ice addressed the question of what makes climbing rubber sticky?

The post Followup to Climbing Shoe Rubber Test Results first appeared on All Climbing.

With that in mind, I decided to dig up all the deals I could find on climbing gear over the Thanksgiving holiday weekend. Here’s what I found:

Deals Ending Today (11/26/08)

Altrec – 30% Off Holiday Sale (I used this deal to buy Prana Axiom jeans this morning!)

Thanksgiving Deals (starting 11/26/08)

Sierra Trading Post – 15% off entire order, no minimums, use code ABLACKCYBER8

Altrec – Stay at Home Sale, 20% off coupon STAYHOME

REI – Winter Sale (through 12/1)

REI – Mega Vendor Free Shipping (Free shipping on entire order with purchase of The North Face, Keen, Marmot, Delorme, Garmin, or Tom Tom GPS – through 12/1)

Moosejaw – 10% Off Sale, use coupon code “Supersale”

Cloudveil – Backroom Sale & Discount Items

Backcountry.com – 20% off clothing, use coupon code 3PU-1-R38LT

Boulder Mountaineering – Fall Clearance Sale

Black Friday (starting 11/28/08)

Prana Store – was told by manager of Boulder retail store that there will be many items on sale Friday – no further details though.

Cyber Monday (starting 11/28/08)

North Face – Free Shipping, No Minimum Purchase

Other, Ongoing Deals and Specials

MonBell – Free Ground Shipping (through 12/25)

gearExpress – On Sale and Blowouts (I’ve bought from the Blowouts page many times and have received greats deals and top notch service.)

Mountain Tools – Steals Sale

Mountain Gear – Deal of the Day

Mountain Gear – $15 off $75 (through 12/1/08)

Altrec – Deal of the Day

REI Outlet

REI Outlet – Deal of the Week

BackcountryOutlet.com – Clearance Bin, at least 50% off

I hope this helps you to pick up some great deals on climbing gear. If you see any other good deals on gear, please share in the comments!

The post Top Climbing Gear Deals for the Holidays first appeared on All Climbing.

There is one big issue I’d like to point out in this study. The test was based on calculating the coefficient of friction between the climbing rubber and the surface. In this study, they only looked at the rubber on granite and on a climbing hold (EGrip’s Peabody Crimp Plate). Each surface type will interact with the climbing rubber differently producing varied coefficients of friction.

In my opinion, looking at only these two surfaces is not enough to declare any rubber superior. I’d like to see the same study performed across many rock surfaces as well as different climbing hold manufacturers. From this new data, a more accurate average could emerge and shine some light on who makes the stickiest climbing shoe rubber.

The post Climbing Shoe Rubber Test Results first appeared on All Climbing.

More gear reviews will be coming including an upcoming review of the new Evolv Optimus slippers. I just got a pair of these and have only been able to use them in the gym. This weekend I’ll be taking them to the New and giving them a full workout.

Another review will be the Revolution 12 Gauge crash pad. I’ve had plenty on mileage on this pad now and a review is almost done.

I’ve taken a ton of pictures recently and haven’t posted any. I’ll be sorting through these and getting some new ones posted.

There’s also a top-secret project in the works. Why even mention it if it’s top-secret? Good question – just felt like I needed to mention it lest you think I’m slacking.

Finally, if you have any interest in the Aron Ralston story, check out an older post I wrote. The comments keep coming (64 now) and there’s a fun flame war brewing. Nice for the entertainment value at least.

The post Coming soon on All Climbing first appeared on All Climbing.

While looking for new bottles, I was amazed at the numerous ways manufacturers can create complexity and choices for something as straightforward (at least in my mind) as a water bottle.

For my usage, primarily on climbing trips, I much prefer a wide-mouth bottle to the narrow drinking versions. While the smaller lids make drinking easier, I like the ability to add liquid, ice cubes, and drink mixes quickly to the wide-mouth bottles. I’ve always preferred the overall flexibility as well as the easier cleaning aspect of a wide-mouth.

So when I found an accessory cap replacement by humangear called capCAP, I was intrigued. The capCAP is intended to simply replace your current cap on any major wide-mouth bottle with their narrow, easier drinking version.

At first I was a bit skeptical that a replacement cap would make any sense, but after using it non-stop over the past few days I love this product.

The capCAP easily fit on my wide-mouth Nalgene bottle with no issues. The first thing I noticed was the rubberized lid on the small cap. This is what you will always be grabbing to open the bottle for drinking and it gripped well with a nice feel to it. This small, yet important feature will be useful out at the crags when hands get greasy, sweating, and chalky.

The other really noticeable design feature is how the drinking spout is curved ergonomically. No spillage and very easy to drink from.

The capCAP’s 2-in-1 design provides both the small cap as well as still giving you access to a large cap for filling the bottle. I like the fact that you get the easier drinking from the smaller cap without losing the functionality of the large cap.

So what does this all cost? The big question, right? The capCAP retails for $5.95 at stores like REI. The average wide-mouth bottle runs from $6 – $12 so your total cost for a bottle after adding the capCAP would be about $14. Not too bad for what you get, especially if you compare it with a narrow mouth SIGG bottle (a one liter bottle runs about $22).

Pros

• very comfortable
• best of both worlds – small-mouth and wide-mouth
• extremely grippable top lid
• ergonomic drinking spout
• BPA-free and PC-free
• works with all major wide-mouth bottles including Nalgene (wide-mouth, OTG and stainless), CamelBak (all sizes), Cyclone, Guyot stainless, and many others
• the carrying loop feels stronger than the standard ones provided with the original bottle

Cons

• currently only comes in one color choice (I don’t mind one color, but I know many do).

Summary

If you like the flexibility of wide-mouth bottles (or already own a bunch of them), but want to drink out of your bottle easier via a narrower spout, you can’t go wrong with the capCAP. Despite the extra cost on a bottle, the product is definitely worthwhile.

Disclaimer: All Climbing was provided a capCap for this review with no strings attached. We do not write reviews for products with any predetermined outcome.

The post Gear Review: the humangear capCAP first appeared on All Climbing.

The next category comprises the extra large pads. Meant for highballs, maximum coverage, or frequent solo bouldering adventures, these monsters usually measure 50″ by 60″ but often times can get much larger. The Revolution 12-Gauge is an excellent example of this type of crash pad.

Finally, you have the small, extra mobile crash pad. Usually less than three feet by four feet, these smaller crash pads have a lot more functionality than you would expect.

Recently I purchased one of these mobile pads. I already owned two crash pads – the venerable Metolius Large crash pad and a recently purchased Revolution 12-Gauge. Despite the flexibility of these two, I still felt like I needed a smaller pad.

Why was I interested in one of these? Two main reasons. First, there are some bouldering areas I frequent where the hike is longer than I’d prefer. With a regular pad, I have to hike normally to reach the boulder. With a mobile pad, I can do some trail running to the bouldering without worrying about having a giant sail on my back. The same rationale for my second reason – riding to areas on my mountain bike. This is not as much of a factor now, but some of the areas I’m considering moving to in Colorado I could easily ride my bike to the trailhead from home.

While on my trip to Colorado in March, I picked up the Revolution Uzi Pad from Neptune Mountaineering. I immediately used it on the relatively steep hike up to the bouldering on Mt. Sanitas. This pad is so small and light, I really did not feel encumbered at all.

Additionally, the full shoulder strap and belt buckle combo usually only found on much larger and more expensive pads was phenomenal. Most of the smaller pads only have the shoulder straps and lack the waist belt. But if you’re going to be using a smaller pad while trail running or biking, you need to have a solid fit so the pad will not shift around too much. The Uzi really excels on this count.

Pros

Just like its older siblings, the Uzi has large flaps with velcro on the bottom and sides making it easy to stuff all your gear inside and not worry about it falling out on the hike.

Inexpensive. The retail price of the Revolution Uzi is only $99.

The Uzi is lightweight at only 7 lbs.

Great for traveling, especially on a plane. I had no issues bringing this baby back from Colorado on multiple connecting flights.

Cons

Honestly, I haven’t found any yet. This pad does what it is supposed to at a reasonable price. The Uzi is not meant to be a primary, all-around crash pad though. If you purchase it for that purpose, you will likely be disappointed.

The Specs

• Manufacturer: Revolution Climbing
• Model: Uzi Pad
• Size: 40″ x 30″ x 2.5″
• Taco fold
• Bar-tacked stitching on stress points
• 4″ wide Velcro strips on side and bottom flaps
• Shoulder straps and 2″ adjustable hip belt
• Ballistic nylon shell
• Velcro-closing pocket on side flap
• Weight: 7 lbs

The Competition

Metolius Sketch Pad $109, 42″ x 32″ x 3″, 6 lbs

Black Diamond Satellite Pad $180, 41″ x 33″ x 3″, 6 lbs 10 oz

Organic Half Pad $80, 24� x 36� x 3�

Organic Briefcase Pad $95, 24″ x 36″ x 3″

Revolution Commando Pad $99, 41″ x 30″ x 3″, 6.5 lbs

Summary

Buy this pad if you’re looking for a smaller version of your existing setup. For its purpose, the Uzi provides a great fit with a reasonable price and all the bells and whistles you would expect from a quality crash pad.

NOTE: One of the best overall crash pad reviews available online is by Dave Pegg on Climbing.com from August 2002.

The post Gear Review: Revolution Uzi Crash Pad first appeared on All Climbing.