Climbing News - All Climbing https://allclimbing.com Everything climbing and the outdoors. Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:07:05 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.5 1268015 Quick Sends – 10/09/10 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-100910/ Fri, 09 Oct 2009 16:07:05 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=1639 Reports from Hounds Ears – Five Ten blog, Rock & Ice, Climbing Narc UKClimbing has an extensive overview of Yosemite climbing. Dead Point Magazine interviews Big Up Productions. Tommy Caldwell and Jeremy Collins win the fourth annual 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell in Arkansas. Alexander and Thomas Huber became the first to redpoint Eternal Flame […]

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Reports from Hounds Ears – Five Ten blog, Rock & Ice, Climbing Narc

UKClimbing has an extensive overview of Yosemite climbing.

Dead Point Magazine interviews Big Up Productions.

Tommy Caldwell and Jeremy Collins win the fourth annual 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell in Arkansas.

Alexander and Thomas Huber became the first to redpoint Eternal Flame (5.13a) on the south face of Trango Tower in Pakistan (Climbing Magazine, Alpinist, TheLowDown)

Patagonia Terminates Relationship with SIGG Water Bottles

Statue of bare-bottom climber causes stir in western Colorado

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Quick Sends – 9/4/09 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-9409/ Fri, 04 Sep 2009 12:02:45 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=1592 Justin Edl established Home on the Range (5.14-) in Vedauwoo, Wyoming , likely one of the hardest cracks in the US. More info on Mountain Project. Phil Schaal Does 5th Ascent Of Jade (V15) Steve McClure repeats Hubble 13 year old summits Carstensz Pyramid Italian Climber Riccardo Cassin Dies at Age 100 Rock & Ice […]

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Justin Edl established Home on the Range (5.14-) in Vedauwoo, Wyoming , likely one of the hardest cracks in the US. More info on Mountain Project.

Phil Schaal Does 5th Ascent Of Jade (V15)

Steve McClure repeats Hubble

13 year old summits Carstensz Pyramid

Italian Climber Riccardo Cassin Dies at Age 100

Rock & Ice interviews Adam Ondra

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Quick Sends – 6/26/09 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-62609/ Sat, 27 Jun 2009 03:15:40 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=1350 The Access Fund signed a memorandum of understanding with the National Park Service (NPS) outlining a relationship between climbers and the NPS. Nalle Hukkataival is in Colorado sending Jade (V15) and establishing a new V13 called Sunseeker. Adam Ondra repeats Alex Huber’s Om (5.14d) at Endstal, Germany. Om sat unrepeated for 17 years after Huberâ??s […]

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The Access Fund signed a memorandum of understanding with the National Park Service (NPS) outlining a relationship between climbers and the NPS.

Nalle Hukkataival is in Colorado sending Jade (V15) and establishing a new V13 called Sunseeker.

Adam Ondra repeats Alex Huber’s Om (5.14d) at Endstal, Germany. Om sat unrepeated for 17 years after Huberâ??s first ascent.

Will Stanhope gets 5th ascent of Sonnie Trotterâ??s Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish.

Alex Honnold and Sean Leary climb the Salathé Wall in a record time of 4:55.

Stephan Siegrist made the first successful redpoint ascent of “Magic Mushroom” on the North Face of the Eiger.

The dyno world record was broken at the Eindhoven World Cup event.

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Quick Sends – 6/12/09 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-61209/ Fri, 12 Jun 2009 17:22:34 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=1323 Search for missing climber Micah Dash is called off due to bad weather. Collection of video tributes to Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson and the link to donate to the search fund. The Spot Gym is holding a fundraiser for the The Search Fund on Tuesday, June 16th in Boulder. More details on […]

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Search for missing climber Micah Dash is called off due to bad weather.

Collection of video tributes to Jonny Copp, Micah Dash, and Wade Johnson and the link to donate to the search fund.

The Spot Gym is holding a fundraiser for the The Search Fund on Tuesday, June 16th in Boulder.

More details on the expedition to Gongga Shan by Micah Dash, Wade Johnson and Jonny Copp.

Results from the Teva Mountain Games Bouldering World Cup in Vail from BoulderDiaries, B3bouldering, Carlo Traversi, and ClimbingNarc.

The route Mecca (F8b+) at Raven Tor in the UK is falling apart.

Alex Honold does record speed ascent of Salathé Wall in Yosemite in 8.5 hours.

The 16th annual International Climbers’ Festival to be held July 8-12 in Lander, Wyoming (via OnTheSharpEnd).

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Quick Sends – 5/22/09 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-52209/ https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-52209/#comments Fri, 22 May 2009 18:42:52 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=1273 Climbing Magazine reports that Toni Lamprecht has climbed a new limestone sport climb, Jaws 11, at Kochel in Southern Germany that heâ??s graded mid-5.15. Ueli Steck comes close to an El Cap onsight with Golden Gate (5.13b, 41 pitches). ClimbingNarc interviews Shawn Diamond and pimpin and crimpin interviews Phil Schaal. The CragBaby provides a trip […]

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Climbing Magazine reports that Toni Lamprecht has climbed a new limestone sport climb, Jaws 11, at Kochel in Southern Germany that heâ??s graded mid-5.15.

Ueli Steck comes close to an El Cap onsight with Golden Gate (5.13b, 41 pitches).

ClimbingNarc interviews Shawn Diamond and pimpin and crimpin interviews Phil Schaal.

The CragBaby provides a trip beta guide to bouldering in Bishop, California.

Alex Johnson made the FFA of Whispers of Wisdom (V10) at Emerald Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Rocky Mountain National Park now requires bear canisters.

The Organic Climber is a new blog about climbing, raw foods, vegetarianism and healthy living. Should be an interesting combination of topics for climbers.

The Mid-Atlantic Climbers association now has a blog.

Results from 2009 Melloblocco in Italy.

Rockgrrl discusses how to marry a climber.

New hard trad and sport lines in North Carolina put up by Dave Sharratt and Pat Goodman.

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Ice Climber at Vail Survives Fall Due to Anchor Failure https://allclimbing.com/ice-climber-at-vail-survives-fall-due-to-anchor-failure/ https://allclimbing.com/ice-climber-at-vail-survives-fall-due-to-anchor-failure/#comments Mon, 30 Mar 2009 19:59:50 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=1070 A news report about an ice climber falling from the anchors of a Vail ice climb has been making the rounds this morning (@jennfields, SuperTopo) From the article: At the top, Boratenski found nylon cords as well as a metal carabiner. He used the nylon instead of the metal as an anchor, something he now […]

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A news report about an ice climber falling from the anchors of a Vail ice climb has been making the rounds this morning (@jennfields, SuperTopo)

From the article:

At the top, Boratenski found nylon cords as well as a metal carabiner. He used the nylon instead of the metal as an anchor, something he now knows was a terrible mistake.

I thought this was something all beginning climbers learned, but maybe it should be reiterated. Never run nylon against nylon as an anchor. The friction of the rope running through the sling or cord will create heat which will cause failure.

If there are no rap rings available, then just leave your own biner. For about six dollars, it’s worth your life.

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Quick Sends – 3/2/09 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-3209/ Mon, 02 Mar 2009 20:33:02 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=850 photo credit: Susanica Nalle Hukkataival has been sending many hard Hueco boulder problems including the first flash of Fred Nicole’s Full Monty (V12). ClimbingNarc has a good summary of the sends this season at Hueco. There appears to be access issues at the sport climbing hotbed of Margalef, Spain. The Book Of Bitter Aspects (V14) […]

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Alex
Creative Commons License photo credit: Susanica

Nalle Hukkataival has been sending many hard Hueco boulder problems including the first flash of Fred Nicole’s Full Monty (V12).

ClimbingNarc has a good summary of the sends this season at Hueco.

There appears to be access issues at the sport climbing hotbed of Margalef, Spain.

The Book Of Bitter Aspects (V14) was repeated by Phillip Schaal.

Images of Golden Rule in Bishop climbed ropeless by Shawn Diamond.

Updates from Squamish.

Adam Ondra climbed the route Papichulo 9a+ at Oliana, Spain.

Impressive sends from young climbers: Geoffrey de Flaugergues, redpointed El Templo del Cafè at Alquezar, Spain, a possible 9a (5.14d), at the age of 13. David Firnenburg, also 13, sent L’Espiadimonis (8c/5.14b) at Margalef, Spain earlier this month.

Will Gadd makes two impressive ice climbing first ascents in Canada.

Massimo Laurencig and Gianni Dorigo carried out the first repeat of “Per Leila” (120m, III/6+) an ice climb first ascended by Luca Vuerich in January at Cima Cenge (Val Riofreddo, Julian Alps).

Chris Schulte has climbed his first 8B+, Gecko assis, at Fontainebleau. On the same trip he also sent La Merveille, 8A+, and Sideways daze, 8B.

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Quick Sends – 2/20/09 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-22009/ Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:36:53 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=769 More wrap-ups of the ABS Nationals from ClimbingNarc, Paul Robinson, Sean McColl, Jon Glassberg, Pimpin and Crimpin, Momentum Video, Dead Point Magazine, and Climbing Magazine. Peter Beal made the FA of There Will Be Blood SDS (V12) at Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado. Ethan Pringle re-injures his shoulder during the ABS Nationals comp. Markus Bock sent 24 […]

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More wrap-ups of the ABS Nationals from ClimbingNarc, Paul Robinson, Sean McColl, Jon Glassberg, Pimpin and Crimpin, Momentum Video, Dead Point Magazine, and Climbing Magazine.

Peter Beal made the FA of There Will Be Blood SDS (V12) at Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado.

Ethan Pringle re-injures his shoulder during the ABS Nationals comp.

Markus Bock sent 24 hour Party People (8c+) in Margalef, a route put up by David Graham.

Niccolò Ceria (age 15) has done four 8a’s in two days in Varazze and Chironico including Dreamtime (8a+).

James Pearson repeats the gritstone testpiece Gerty Berwick at Ilkley Quarry, England.

Ty Landman sends Seb Frigault’s L’Insoutenable Légèreté de l’Autre, 8B, at Franchard Isatis, Fontainebleau.

Dave Graham sent tons of V13s.

First free ascent of the east face of the central tower of Torres del Paine via â??the South African Routeâ? (5.12c)

French climbers Philippe Batoux and Lionel Daudet completed a new 12-pitch mixed rock and ice route at Freyssinière.

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Quick Sends – 8/1/08 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-8108/ Fri, 01 Aug 2008 18:09:37 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=410 Czech climber Adam Ondra redpointed WoGu (5.14) in Switzerland Red River Gorge’s Torrent Falls re-opens to climbers Peregrine closures lifted for all USFS and non-FS climbing areas in North Carolina Dave Macleod frees Echo Wall, Scotland China closes Mt. Everest for spring cleanup in 2009 Nicolas Favresse makes second ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14)

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Czech climber Adam Ondra redpointed WoGu (5.14) in Switzerland

Red River Gorge’s Torrent Falls re-opens to climbers

Peregrine closures lifted for all USFS and non-FS climbing areas in North Carolina

Dave Macleod frees Echo Wall, Scotland

China closes Mt. Everest for spring cleanup in 2009

Nicolas Favresse makes second ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14)

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Quick Sends – 7/3/08 https://allclimbing.com/quick-sends-7308/ Thu, 03 Jul 2008 15:45:28 +0000 http://www.allclimbing.com/?p=398 Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama set new speed record on the Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite Results of the lead-climbing competition in China Yosemite Museum at Yosemite National Park is featuring new exhibit dedicated to rock climbing Bill to ban bisphenol-A (BPA) was introduced to Congress Nau purchased and re-opend by Horny Toad

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Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama set new speed record on the Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite

Results of the lead-climbing competition in China

Yosemite Museum at Yosemite National Park is featuring new exhibit dedicated to rock climbing

Bill to ban bisphenol-A (BPA) was introduced to Congress

Nau purchased and re-opend by Horny Toad

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