Many of the comments from other climbers related to their injury, how they’ve been treating it, and where to go for additional advice.

Since these posts live forever via search engines, I thought it may be useful to simply have a post where anyone can comment on what doctors or other medical professionals they’ve found to be helpful in dealing with climbing related injuries. You can view here to get an attorney to help.

I’ll start things off by listing some I recommend:

Kim Raupp, certified hand therapist, Lafayette, CO – She worked on my partially torn A2, helped me with an excellent rehab path, and I’m getting close to being fully healed.

Dr. Jeremy Rodgers, sports medicine/chiropractic care, Boulder, CO – He helped me with my elbow tendinitis.

Dr. Stephen Gunther, orthopedic surgeon, Washington, DC, – Diagnosed recurring shoulder issue (“loose” shoulder) and provided resources for rehabbing a separated shoulder, if you got medical bills from injuries you could totally get help from debtconsolidation.com medical bills to help you in this area.

Please add yours in the comments and hopefully we can compile a nice resource for all our fellow injured climbers.

The post Medical Professionals Treating Climbing Injuries first appeared on All Climbing.

I’m going to get real blunt here: If you want to be a better climber then damn well go climbing, so you should grab your RV and go find some rocks and you can even get a rv outside tv mount for entertainment during the rest period. Especially a better rock climber. I would bet any amount of money that if a person spent, say, 20 hours a week training and climbing hard in a structured climbing program (rock gym and outdoors) and an identical person spent 20 hours a week in a weight gym (even one promising some sort of climbing-specific program) that the actual climbing effort would destroy the gym program. Absolutely destroy it, as in 5.12 vs. 5.9, as in sending like a fiend and falling off before the first bolt on the same route. I guarantee this.

The post Will Gadd on Training for Climbing first appeared on All Climbing.

Whether learning how to jam cracks or cruising 5.13 testpieces, tape gloves will prevent the back of your hands from turning into hamburger. Not only will this help you avoid needless suffering, it will allow you to climb exponentially more than the haughty non-taper who is sidelined by shredded skin.

The post How to Make a Tape Glove first appeared on All Climbing.

As your main points of weighted contact, your feet matter. Placing them silently forces you to be deliberate and aware with your choice, placement, and movement onto and off each foothold.

The awesome power of Silent Feet

The post Silent Feet, How to Have Better Climbing Footwork first appeared on All Climbing.

Sure I went climbing regularly but I wasnâ??t really trying. I took the easy way out. I toproped whenever someone else was willing to lead. I climbed the same routes regularly. If I was leading and my knees where at a bolt I would take instead of going for it. Basically, I sucked at sport climbing because I deluded myself into thinking that I was trying, when really I was giving 50% most of the time.

via Will Gadd

The post What it Takes to Climb 5.12 first appeared on All Climbing.

The post Treatment of Climbing Injuries Increases first appeared on All Climbing.

I’ve started reading the book One Move Too Many as it was recommended to me by several different climbers. I’ll be posting my full thoughts when I’ve finished the book, but I can already tell you that this is a must have for any climber, especially those dealing with specific injuries.

One idea from the book really stands out to me. The authors discuss warming up and state that:

Scientific studies have shown that bringing the pulleys and tendons up to a perfect state of “readiness” requires about four routes or 120 moves of climbing.

Think about that statement. Do you warm up that effectively? Do you climb four easy routes as a warm up? I’d wager that the vast majority of climbers do two routes maximum and call themselves warmed up.

More thoughts on this book are forthcoming, but I thought that tidbit was too interesting to not share immediately.

The post 120 Moves of Climbing first appeared on All Climbing.

Trad climbing has lost some of its appeal, or is a smaller blip on the radar. I still know plenty of folks that prefer trad, but there was a day when there was only trad. Trad climbing may be analogous to a lost culture. In fact, it is a culture within a culture, and as with the loss of any culture, itâ??s inevitable that knowledge specific to that culture is also lost. My goal here is to create and catalog the (lost) techniques, tricks, and tips particular to, or useful for trad climbing.

(via @rockgrrl)

The post Trad Climbing Techniques, Tricks, and Tips first appeared on All Climbing.

The post Topping Out a Boulder Problem and Avoiding the Beached Whale first appeared on All Climbing.

You can find the first three parts here and the fourth is due this August. The articles are PDFs and contain some great tips for climbing and training from the Scottish hardman.

The post Dave MacLeod’s Climbing and Training Tips Series first appeared on All Climbing.