Whether learning how to jam cracks or cruising 5.13 testpieces, tape gloves will prevent the back of your hands from turning into hamburger. Not only will this help you avoid needless suffering, it will allow you to climb exponentially more than the haughty non-taper who is sidelined by shredded skin.

The post How to Make a Tape Glove first appeared on All Climbing.

Trad climbing has lost some of its appeal, or is a smaller blip on the radar. I still know plenty of folks that prefer trad, but there was a day when there was only trad. Trad climbing may be analogous to a lost culture. In fact, it is a culture within a culture, and as with the loss of any culture, itâ??s inevitable that knowledge specific to that culture is also lost. My goal here is to create and catalog the (lost) techniques, tricks, and tips particular to, or useful for trad climbing.

(via @rockgrrl)

The post Trad Climbing Techniques, Tricks, and Tips first appeared on All Climbing.

Duct Tape: For some reason that I will never understand, trad climbers have an affinity for duct tape that is almost as creepy as a mustachioed man winking at five year olds. What they do with this stuff, Iâ??ll never know but what I do know is that to look like a seasoned trad climber, you need to have truck loads of this shit. But hereâ??s the trick: you canâ??t keep on the roll. Youâ??ve got to stick it to your parka, wrap it around nalgenes and toothbrushes for no apparent reason and use it to patch your carharts. Maybe someday youâ??ll meet MacGyver and figure some practical uses for this stuff.

The post The Accessorized Trad Climber from Pimpin and Crimpin first appeared on All Climbing.

Through an error in CNC machining, the inner sleeves on these units are rotated slightly to the side. This rotation causes the ends of the unit to be slightly out of parallel. Although barely noticeable in use, this off center orientation is not to spec and should be corrected. It could cause additional instability in some placements, particularly more parallel-sided cracks.

The defective Big Bros can only be visually inspected as there are no batch markings. To check if your units are among those being recalled, please visit Trango’s website for instructions.

(via Mountain Project)

The post Trango Big Bro #5 Recall Notice first appeared on All Climbing.

There is a little bit of controversy over pre-equalized anchors. Some feel that one leg of the anchor will get more force than another, which means that such an anchor could never be fully equalized. While there may be some truth to this concern, the impact on the anchor as a whole is minimal and professional climbing guides throughout the country are generally not concerned about it.

This may be basic stuff for many of you, but a quick refresher never hurts!

The post Pre-Equalized Anchors and the American Death Triangle first appeared on All Climbing.

The following is a trailer of the film due late October 2008:

The post Trailer for the upcoming Echo Wall climbing film first appeared on All Climbing.

Omega Pacific recently released a notice instructing owners of their Link Cams to look for a potential defect:

In May 2008, we became aware of situations in which axle nuts were not properly and permanently fixed on the axle assemblies permitting the cams to potentially become disassembled. Upon receiving the units, our Quality Assurance department launched an exhaustive investigation to determine the cause and establish correction of the issue.

Our QA inspectors have determined that the returned units were allowed to progress from one assembly station to the next without this important step having been completed.

It was determined, based on identification by lot numbers, that the cams returned were manufactured prior to the implementation of upgraded quality assurance procedures and employee training sessions which were instituted in May 2007. At that point, new work instructions were written, additional quality inspection steps were introduced and employees were either reassigned or retrained to reduce the likelihood of such lapses in quality from occurring.

Full information, including how to determine if your Link Cam needs to be repaired, can be found at the Omega Pacific web site here.

The post Omega Pacific issues inspection notice for Link Cams first appeared on All Climbing.

There’s a part 2 coming and hopefully we’ll get to see the lead (and maybe some big whippers off that crack?)

The post Climbing a 5.12+ roof crack in Squamish first appeared on All Climbing.

Along with tons of pictures of old gear, the article that accompanies the slideshow contains a history of nuts and other types of pro.

In 1961, a blacksmith from Sheffield, John Brailsford, then a teacher of engineering technology, created the ever first purpose designed nut, the Acorn. Three sizes (1 inch, ¾ inch and 5/8 inch) were turned on a lathe from extruded aluminium alloy. John Brailsford also tried Tufnol (a resin bonded fibre used by Rolls Royce or Hoover for making light weight, silent gears) and brass for their different properties of hardness. Since the Acorn had a machine nut sitting on its top and threaded on the same sling, this « nest of nuts » offered two options, the machine nut or the Acorn. They were probably the first nuts to be marketed in England, by the Roger Turner Mountain Shop in Nottingham.

The post The Nuts Museum slideshow and history first appeared on All Climbing.

The key to pure crack climbing, as with every type of climbing, is the feet. I like to start from the basics, which with cracks, is the hand crack. Hand cracks are the nicest, easiest thing you can climb, so you can focus on body position and movement technique, rather than the more precise jamming. If you have never done a handjam, it will feel alien and bizarre at first, but just slide your hand straight into the crack, and flex it, especially the meaty area under your thumb. It will stick, and thatâ??s a handjam. I always say, if I fall out of a handjam, I deserve it :), so I tend to run it out if Iâ??m in solid handjams.

Photo by Dru!

The post Crack climbing technique first appeared on All Climbing.