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Pre-Equalized Anchors and the American Death Triangle

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The American Alpine Institute points out a series of videos by Canadian climbing guide Mike Barter on the pre-equalization on anchors:

There is a little bit of controversy over pre-equalized anchors. Some feel that one leg of the anchor will get more force than another, which means that such an anchor could never be fully equalized. While there may be some truth to this concern, the impact on the anchor as a whole is minimal and professional climbing guides throughout the country are generally not concerned about it.

This may be basic stuff for many of you, but a quick refresher never hurts!

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  1. Hi there,

    I wanted to embed your youtube videos in my own site. They’re well made, clear and consise. just what I needed to add to a future Technical advice section.

    will that be ok ?


  2. Daniel, those videos are from the American Alpine Institute. Since they’re on YouTube it shouldn’t be an issue to embed, but if you want to be safe please check with them.