Chris Sharma writes on his blog at MVM that he’s sent a new 9a+/5.15a project in Oliana, Spain called Pachamama. His description of the route: Pachamama is a blue wall just to the right of my other route Papichulo 9a+. Its 50m long and very pumpy and psychological. Read the full post at MVM for […]
Climbing Magazine reports that Toni Lamprecht has climbed a new limestone sport climb, Jaws 11, at Kochel in Southern Germany that heâ??s graded mid-5.15. Ueli Steck comes close to an El Cap onsight with Golden Gate (5.13b, 41 pitches). ClimbingNarc interviews Shawn Diamond and pimpin and crimpin interviews Phil Schaal. The CragBaby provides a trip […]
The Reel Rock Tour has announced details for this years competition. I saw last years winners during the 2008 Reel Rock Tour in Boulder where The Sharp End was premiered and they were quite well done.
The New River Rendezvous is of one of the best climbing events I’ve attended and this year the seventh version of this annual event takes place this weekend from May 14-17. Unfortunately I’ll not be able to attend this year, but apparently the forecast is good and there’s an outstanding lineup of events planned. The […]
I’m not sure exactly how recently the Access Fund updated their web site, but they now have an RSS feed for their news. This will hopefully help the spread of news, access issues, and events.
News on the Gunks from SuperTopo: In Gardiner, New York, five pieces of land abutting the Mohonk Preserve are now closed. Accordingly, roughly 1700 feet of the Millbrook Ridge Trail has been rerouted off private land. Also, approximately 900 feet of cliff face in the Bayards and the Near Trapps is closed, including todayâ??s closure […]
A news report about an ice climber falling from the anchors of a Vail ice climb has been making the rounds this morning (@jennfields, SuperTopo) From the article: At the top, Boratenski found nylon cords as well as a metal carabiner. He used the nylon instead of the metal as an anchor, something he now […]
Alex Johnson sent Maze of Death (V12) on only five attempts for the second female ascent. The problem is located in the Bardini boulders at Bishop. (via Bishop Bouldering Blog, Kelly McBride, and TheLowDown)
Popular rock climbing portal RockClimbing.com is under new management again. Citing economic conditions, they’re reconfiguring ownership and dropping Jay Young as a full-time, salaried publisher (via @theclimbergirl). Rockclimbing.com, together with its sister sites Dropzone.com and BASEjumper.com, were purchased by NameMedia last year and operated by them since then. Unfortunately, as the economy worsened over the […]
Sean McColl writes about warming up for competitions. He has some good advice that can be adapted to any climbing warm-up routine. My 75 minute warm up starts with 5 minutes of cardio. You can do anything, jump up and down, go for a run, jump rope, anything to get your heart going. For the […]